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'Baby' World Tour - Part 6
The 'Baby' World Tour (Part 6)
Oz ! A hop skip and a jump across the Tasman to Sydney, Hunter Valley, Newcastle and Adelaide
As I type I am in South Australia in a lovely fishing hamlet called Robe. Robe is approx 340km south east of Adelaide. Robe is a very peaceful place where limestone wine growing country meets long sandy beaches and rugged cliffs. I'm not far from a famous stretch of coastline called the 'Great Ocean Road' that runs from here towards Melbourne. Robe has a fascinating history. Apparently the Chinese gold miners used to come ashore at Robe to avoid the gold tax, which was levied in Victoria. The miners would travel overland from Robe into Victoria.
I'm staying tonight in a tremendous YHA. The building was built in the 1800s of what looks like the local limestone. It has an incredibly long wooden floored corridor that forms the spine of this one storey high ceiling house. There are large dorm and double bed rooms leading off either side of the long corridor.
It has been a good few weeks since the last diary entry has been posted. In fact I notice it was posted late Feb. So here goes.
Wed 28th Feb (Lake Wanaka, South Island of New Zealand)
Busk outside the cafes on Lake Wanaka. A couple of German girls called Bernadetta and Anita come and sit nearer to hear the music. The weather is hot and sunny. I play harmonica and strum the baby in rhythm to the pace of life around here, which is slow to stationary. I sell a couple of albums to John and Carol from Kalgoorlie in Western Australia.
Thurs 1st March
Busk during the hot day outside New World Supermarket in Wanaka. A lady who gigs and performs in the Lake Wanaka area comes and joins in with the singing. To my shame I haven't noted her name and have subsequently forgotten it, but it is great to chat to her about her music. We sing harmonies together on Carole King's 'You've Got A friend' and the Beatles' 'We Can Work It Out'. At night I go for walk up to Wanaka's War memorial monument overlooking the town, lake and moonlit mountains. The stars are everywhere. I listen to Copeland's 'Appalachian Spring' on my ipod. Hard to describe the emotion this piece of music creates when combined with the scenery all around me. I see the stars and think of our immortality and people not around anymore, (it always gets me like that) so I suppose really a bit sombre. I also think of the scale of nature and the universe.
Fri 2nd March
Have to move hostels as 'Mountain View' the hostel I am staying at is full tonight. I book into Wanaka Backpackers. This hostel has great views of the lake.
Sat 3rd March
Busking outside 'New World Supermarket' continues to generate cash. It's a good spot as i can stay in the shade. At night I notice that on my right shin I have an insect bite that has bubbled up with fluid. Not a pleasant sight.
I bump into Tara a girl from Brighton who stayed in the same dorm room as me at Rosemere backpackers in Wellington. Tara and her friend have been to a comedy night at Wanaka cinema. They say the Kiwi comedian was embarrassingly bad. We are sitting around on the sofa in the lounge of the hostel. What makes conversation slightly awkward is that a Canadian girl sitting next to me was at the same gig and really enjoyed it. Just goes to show it's all subjective.
I go to bed early. Have to be up for early coach to Mount Cook. At last I am leaving Wanaka. Not without some sadness
Sunday 4th March
Get 7.30am shuttle mini-bus to a tiny settlement called Tarras. Tarras has a gas-filling garage where the main Southern Link Bus stops to pick up people heading for Mt Cook and Christchurch.
I get chatting to John and his wife. John is a Kiwi who in the 70s and 80s worked in the coalmines of South East Australia and also in some of the mines of Western Australia. He tells me you can earn serious money working in the mineral mines of Australia. His wife (unfortunately didn't get her name) has lost none of her Scottish accent even though she has lived in Christchurch for the last 40 years!!
She tells me that when she first arrived in New Zealand it cost her $100 for 3 minutes to phone back home. Apparently by the time she had said hello to her parents and 6 sisters it was time to say goodbye. As a consequence there was a lot of screaming and shouting in those precious 3 minutes and not much meaningful dialogue. Things have changed a bit since then.
The mountains at the head of The Mount Cook village's valley are impressive to say the least. Towering. The rising air that hits the peaks straight from the Tasman and Pacific dump a huge amount of snow on the tops. Mt Cook itself is a stunning peak to look at and a very dangerous mountain to climb. Very avalanche prone. Sir Edmund Hilary climbed these peaks in his younger days. Perhaps no other Kiwi encapsulates the no-bullshit spirit of Aotearoa people as Ed.
'Surveys seeking to find the most admired New Zealander frequently find Sir Edmund Hilary near the top of the pile. Being one of the first pair to summit Mt Everest in 1953 is undoubtedly a noteworthy achievement, but the veneration lies also in his conduct. Hilary embodies the qualities Kiwis hold most dear: Hard working, straight talking, honest and, most of all, modest. As he said on his return from the successful summit attempt, "Well George, we knocked the bastard off". That's what gets your face on every $5 note in this country'.
RG
My accommodation for the night is the Wyn Urwin Climber's Hut. It is at the head of the Mount Cook valley right next to the Camping ground. The hut is cosy and basic. Rainwater is the only water used in the hut. The bunks are old fashioned and have a 50's feel to them. I like that. There are 16 bunks. The lounge looks straight up at the daunting mountains.
I arrive late afternoon. The only people here are Cameron, a Kiwi climber who helps run the hut:, Barry, an older high altitude walker from Queensland, and Andy and Sonia, two younger climbers from Munich.
Cameron has climbed Mt Cook so i ask him about the routes up. Apparently a popular way up the mountain is to get the helicopter onto its lower slopes, easier than the two day hike through the Hooker Valley to the base of the mountain. Either way it's no picnic. You've got to admire these people that climb these peaks. Near the campground is a memorial to all those climbers that have perished on the mountain. Many die in the avalanches. Sobering reading.
Mt Sefton. Mt Cook National Park. Taken from the Wyn Urw
Mt Sefton
Mt Cook
Isolated tree, Mt Cook National Park
Monday 5th March
Get up early, walk to 'Kea Point'. Kea Point looks up to the glacial moraine that dams Hooker Lake. Beyond this chaotic landscape is the beautiful photogenic peak of Mount Cook. The early morning sun lights only the tops. The lower valley still lies in shadow.
As the sun rises I return to the hut. I'm too tired and hot to contemplate a long walk. I feel a bit guilty for not taking full advantage of the glorious day. Oh well.
After briefly trying a little busking at Mt Cook's Hermitage Hotel and earning exactly $0.00 i decide it best to move on. I will head for Lake Tekapo 80 km East. Andy and Sonia are heading that way and kindly offer me a lift there in the back of their camper van. Andy and Sonia have been travelling through U.S.A. Mexico, New Zealand, and are heading for Oz and then onto India before returning to Germany.
I play a few songs in the back of the van as repayment for their kindness. On the way the late afternoon sun shines down on the milky turquoise water of Lake Pukaki. The water is so coloured due to the glaciers grinding down rock into a kind of glacial flour that then enters the lake creating a remarkable shade of milky blue. The only down side of this phenomenon is that the 'flour' gets stuck in fish gills so the Lake doesn't have as many fish.
View of Lake Pukakhi from the back of Andy and Sonia's camper
A remarkable coloured lake
We drive through Mackenzie Country, a tussock plateau that stretches for miles in each direction. This is traditional sheep farming country. I was cycling on this road 6 years ago. It's strange to be back on it in the back of Andy and Sonia's van.
Andy and Sonia drop me at Lake Tekapo late afternoon. They are on their way to Christchurch to climb 'Castle Rocks'.
I go to Lake Tekapo's YHA but it's full up. Fortunately there is another hostel a few hundred yards further round the lake. I can't resist a dip in the lake on the way there.
The pebbles and rocks hurt the old feet but soon i am swimming. It's bloody cold but that's good as it has been a hot one today. The Lakeside Hostel is excellent overlooking the beautiful turquoise waters of Tekapo. Mountains surround this lake. It has a feel of Scotland especially with a chapel called 'The Church Of the Good Shepherd' at the head of the lake.
Tuesday 6th March
Get up 6.30am. Climb Mt John, a hill overlooking Lake Tekapo. Watch sun come up. Check out of Lakeside Hostel and try my hand at hitching from here to Christchurch, a distance of 200km. Fortunately after 40 minutes with my thumb out by the road side i get an offer of a lift. Wolfgang and Alexandria are a young couple from Hamburg. Wolfgang is doing his PHD in engineering and Alexandria is a dietician. Again to repay their kindness i play a couple of songs in the back. Late afternoon get to Christchurch. I check in at 'Base' backpackers right next to Christchurch 'Cathedral Square'. I do some busking in front of the cathedral. Get good response and money begins to enter the cap.
Wed 7th March
Go busking in cathedral square and the shopping malls of Christchurch. In the evening check into 'Marine Backpackers' in the seaside resort of Sumner, 8km out of Christchurch.
Thurs 8th March
Meet up with Sarah Newman, former DJ presenter of the Breakfast Show on 'Lakeland Radio' back in the UK. Sarah moved out to Christchurch literally just a month ago. It's great to see her. She seems to be loving her new life. Good on her.
Last time we saw each other i played a live song on her show. Now we are both on the other side of the world!! We take a walk in Christchurch's botanic gardens. Sarah has a positive attitude to life that is infectious. I play a song in the gardens and Sarah flings these sticks from her arms in all directions. It's called Poi. It looks great but it's not easy.
DJ/ presenter/bungee jumper/skydiver and all-round good egg Sarah Newman (formerly of Lakeland Radio) and myself enjoying Christchurch Botanic Gardens.
Christchurch Botanic Gardens. As Sarah so eloquently put it, "Trees don't half remind me of broccoli."
Christchurch Botanic Garden
Fri 9th March
Busk in the morning in the malls of Christchurch. A chap called Bruno from France places a $20 note in my cap. I promise him I will send him an album as that's a lot of money!
Looking forward to picking up more albums when my Dad sends me more over. Probably will have to wait to pick some up at my Uncle Harry's in Australia. I have currently run out of copies. They've sold like hot cakes!!
Get mid afternoon bus to Kaikoura 170km north.
Stop in the Blue Albatross hostel in Kaikoura. A Maori couple runs it. I have the dorm to myself and am drifting off to sleep late on when a biker's club check in
Sat 10th March
Watch the sun come up early on over Kaikoura bay. Busk outside Kaikoura information centre. Sell a CD to Amy from Christchurch. Busking money pays for my bus up to Picton, which leaves late afternoon. Before I catch my bus I go and sit on Kaikoura's incredibly steep and pebbly beach. In the distance I spot dolphins jumping out of the water.
Get coach to Picton. Arrive at dusk. Check into Picton Lodge Hostel
Sun 11th March
A quick busk in the morning along Picton's main street. I then catch ferry to Wellington. On the way across the Cook Straits see dolphins jumping out of the water. That's two dolphin sightings in two days!
On arrival at Wellington decide to busk on Lambton Quay. It's good to be back in the capital.
Check into Rosemere Hostel where it's great to see everyone again. Itoe (the Japanese lass) gives me a hug. Bella the cat is chilling outside on the deck. Have a chat with Jenny and Roz from Scotland. Jenny is an architect and Roz is a designer and brilliant pianist. Jenny is working in an architect's office and Roz is doing bar work. Roz seems to love her bar work but admits the job's main perk is taking its toll on her liver.
Mon 12th March
Perform on Cuba Street. A young lad called Scottie approaches me and asks if I'd like to do a gig at a live music venue that he has recently helped set up. The venue is called 'Global Cafe'. The gig will be on Saturday.
Tues 13th March
After a day of busking back at Rosemere Hostel I get jamming with a lad from Argentina on bongos and a lad called Carrick from Oldham who plays guitar. This all happens on the drinking deck where it's great to have a chat with Ken.
Wed 14th March
Busk
Thurs 15th March
Go see a live band in one of the bars on Cuba St with Carrick from Oldham and Felix from Germany. The band is a mix of Kiwi singer and Japanese bassist, flute player and drummer and it's fair to say they have a good really distinctive style. The drummer doesn't use a bass drum. Instead he sits on a wooden block seat and slaps it with his hand. Sounds good.
Friday 16th March
My last day at Rosemere, I get up early morning. Ken is out on the deck. The clouds race by. That is the beauty of the deck. It's like being on a ship. The weather just whistles by and you can watch the clouds. Because of its elevated position you get a great view of the sky and the hills that surround Wellington. Certainly makes you feel good to be alive. I discover the delights of Golden Seal Pineapple Juice from Queensland, the juice of the gods.
Sat 17th March
Busk outside Summerfield's shop in Lambton Quay. It's St Patrick's Day. I sing a few Irish numbers including 'Fairytale Of New York''. I wish i knew 'Danny Boy'. Must learn that for next time. In the evening I do gig at 'The Global Cafe'. Turns out to be an excellent venue with stage and sound desk etc..
The Global Cafe is a Christian organisation. Before the speakers come on Scotty introduces me to the audience who are sitting around at tables drinking coffee. It's all very relaxed.
I do all original material including 'Paperwork', 'The Dawn', 'To Give Again'', 'Everlasting'.
Very well received.
After my set there is a talk by a 16 yr old lass who has had a tumultuous upbringing, but has obviously found solace in religion. It's good to hear.
Then there is a set by two young girls. One plays guitar and the other bongos. The singer has dreadlocks and detunes the guitar regularly. The two girls play really well together.
The evening finishes off with two older speakers firing out a question and answer session on how we all react to traumatic/crisis events in our lives.
Stay at Bec and Daiman's in the evening. They seem to be fitting into married life just fine. It's good to see them. Bec works for the Dept Of Labour and has travelled all over the world many times with her job. Daiman works for the Dept of trade/employment. With such a tight working schedule it's really good of them to invite me to stay at theirs for the weekend.
Sun 18th March
The Crater Lake on Mt Ruapehu (New Zealand's North Island) bursts its bank. As a consequence a river of mud spews down the mountain side and into the river channels below. This phenomenon is called a 'Lahar'.
Hugely impressive and frightening to watch, fortunately the NZ DOC/Govt have been waiting for 8 yrs for this to happen so all the safety procedures are in place. No one is killed.
Bec, Daiman and myself watch the news coverage. Incredible pictures.
Mon 19th March
My last full day in New Zealand, I busk outside Summerfield's. The staff drop a thank you card in my cap. I'm well chuffed with that. In the evening i say goodbye to Daiman and Bec. Bec kindly drops me at Wellington Railway Station. I am getting the overnight coach up to Auckland. It sets off at 8.00pm. It arrives in Auckland 7.00am the following morning. It is a long old journey.
Tues 20th March
Air New Zealand plane takes off from Auckland to Sydney at 2.00pm, a good steady flight over the Tasman. On arrival at Sydney I feel the humidity straight away. In the underground it feels stiflingly humid compared with the freshness of Wellington.
I have arranged to meet my uncle Harry at a railway station called Morriset, a two hour train ride north of Sydney. It starts to rain on the way up. It's good to see the rain as Australia has had a big drought. They call it here 'The Big Dry'.
It's great to see Harry and Heather. They're both looking well. Harry is my Mum's brother. My Mum has 4 brothers and a sister and Harry is the only Newcastle fan. All the others are Sunderland.
Harry and Heather moved to Australia from Chester-Le-Street in County Durham in 1964 when they were 20 and just married. Harry is a plumber by trade and can turn his hand to anything. Heather used to work in a bank. On first arriving in Oz they settled in Sydney. They then had family (my cousins Kelly and Stefany) and moved to a town called Budgewoi. After Budgewoi they bought land in The Hunter Valley wine growing area at a place near Pokolbin, the nearest town being Cessnock. They have a good few acres and through hard graft have built 2 beautiful wood panneled villas that they rent out as weekday/weekend retreats for overseas holidaymakers and Ozzies wanting to enjoy the wineries and the peace of this remarkable landscape.
At Harry and Heather's I get straight in their swimming pool. It's a hard life eh!
A balmy old night. Harry gets the beers out. We get talking football almost straight away.
Go to sleep with the sound of the crickets, grasshoppers and whatever else is out there.
Wed 21st March
Harry gets me up early around 7ish. We go for walk down to his horses and the land that he owns. Harry enjoys a game of golf so we take a few balls with us to hit with a 7 iron.
We have some carrots for the horses. In a field nearby are Kangaroos. They're great to watch. They appear to be resting in the shade. What a country this is! The distant hills and long sweeping valley with nearby vineyards make this place feel like a kind of paradise. The vivid colours of some of the Parakeets and Birds of Paradise are eye catching in the rising sun. The sound of the dawn chorus is also something quite startling and different to anything I've heard in my life. I know i was here 6 years ago, but there are certain things that you forget and the dawn chorus was one of them. I therefore record the sounds with my minidisk recorder.
Thurs 22nd March
Heather takes me for drive around the area. It's great to see my cousins Kelly and Stefany and their families. Kelly is a nurse and is married to Dave, a very capable lad. Dave designs and builds Stainless Steel Handrails. Kelly is pregnant with twins and is huge at the moment. Dave extended their house a few years back and it looks great. Puts my pathetic DIY skills to shame. Oh well. Kelly has a three-year-old daughter Milahn. Also at Kelly and Dave's are Stefany's two daughter's Sienna and Finlay. I play a couple of songs to them including the classic 'Postman Pat' which they appreciate enormously. My cousin Stefany turns up. It's great to see her. Stef has been to the funeral of a local lad killed in Fiji in a helicopter accident. It is a state funeral as this lad was in the Australian SAS and died in service for his country.
Stefany is a teacher and Daz her husband has his own carpet business. In the afternoon we get to Stef and Daz' house. It looks out on a wonderful lake in a town called Toukley. The lake is called Budgewoi Lake.
From left to right, Finlay, Milahn, Cousin Kelly (heavily pregnant with twins), and Sienna, Lake Munmorah, New South Wales
From left to right, Dave, Cousin Kelly, Sienna, Cousin Stefany, Finlay, Aunty Heather, Milahn.
Uncle Harry (Newcastle fan, poor lad), Aunty Heather and me by the pool. Hunter Valley, New South Wales
Moet, Uncle Harry and Aunty Heather
Heather, Moet and me.
Fri 23rd March
More drinking beer and swimming in the pool at Harry and Heather's, how can I keep this up?
Sat 24th March
Uncle Harry lends me his Toyota Utility vehicle. I drive down to Newcastle to busk in the Mall. Newcastle is the biggest coal exporting port in the world. I am astonished to see maybe a hundred huge tankers sitting off the coast waiting to come in and load up. A lot of the coal will go to China. It's bizarre because this industrial scene is mixed with excellent beaches. There are enormous Pelicans perched on the rocks and on the beach. Lots of people are swimming in the big waves.
I make good money in the mall. I then walk along the front and go for a swim in the open air salt water swimming pool. There is a storm brewing. Dark clouds can be seen coming in off the sea.
In the evening I head to Kelly and Dave's where I will stay tonight. I am going to a party with Stef and Daz. Daz brings me a bow tie to wear as it is bow tie and bare feet party.
The couple that host the party, Fuz and Julie have a house that backs onto a lake looking towards Toukley and Budgewoi. The fresh storm wind gusts whistle off the lake blowing tables and chairs off the outside decking.
Inside I try oysters for the first time. They slip down rather well. They taste of the sea.
Later on we have a sing-song. A singer/songwriter called Julie-ann joins in. She has a great voice. Fuz, the host, was a drummer in a well known local band so we soon get it together when he joins in with his bongos and tambourine. I get chatting to Julie- Ann after about her music. She, like myself, uses CD Baby as a way of getting her music out to more people.
Busking in the mall in Newcastle, New South Wales
Doing alright too !
The beach at Newcastle, New South Wales
A Pelican looking out to sea at Newcastle, the largest coal exporting port in the world. The only hint that this is the case in this photo is the line of tankers waiting to come into port to pick up their cargo. Much of the coal will go to China.
Daz, cousin Stef and myself all dressed up for the party
Milahn.
Sun March 25th
Kelly and Dave drop me at Wyee Railway Station. I will see all the family again when Kelly has the twins, which are due next Friday. I head for Sydney. Check into Footprints Hostel on Pitt Street. Immediately head for the pedestrian precinct area of Sydney.
It's late in the day but spirits are raised when a woman sitting listening to me drops a $20 note in. I give her a CD as a mark of thanks.
Mon March 26th
Busk down at Circular Quay where it's great to see the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House.
Finding Sydney hard work though. It's very noisy. I feel lost in the crowd, people walking by at 100 mph. On the plus side I watch an incredible street performer down at the harbour. His name is Sean and he is from Street in Somerset. He has a radio microphone so he doesn't have to shout. It's great to see him work the crowd enticing more and more people in. He's funny as well. He stands on the bar of his BMX bike and lets rip with a chain saw juggling it with other sharp deadly objects.
His final trick involves volunteers, spaced at regular distance intervals, holding a 15 ft poll up in the air with rope. Sean balances a bicycle on the steel poll and then proceeds to juggle a chain saw and knives whilst eating an apple. Now that's entertainment!!!
Another incredible performer I see today is a Korean lad juggling a football. I can honestly say I have never seen ball skills like it. He even manages to take his shirt off and put it on again while balancing the ball on his head.
At night I am just going to sleep in my dorm when 3 Irish lasses arrive. They are called Nieve, Rhonda and Annette. They are from Dublin. They are lively and up for a singsong. It's the first performance I've ever done lying down in bed, it kind of works. Something to consider back home when I am gigging and feeling a little tired.
Tuesday March 27th
Busking a wee bit frustrating in Sydney. I let myself down by singing to some folk to cheer up. I don't like this in me. It's as if something snaps once in a while. It seems to be a negative anger that comes out when I am being totally ignored. I should learn to get my head down and live with it. It's a fact of life at times.
Wednesday March 28th
My last day in Sydney busking before I get night coach to Adelaide. Ironically I have much better day and sell 5 CDs and make good money. A busker called Tony from Northern Ireland comes up to me and asks me for some performing tips, as it's his first day trying this mad occupation. The only tips I can recommend are to play with a smile on your face, make eye contact with people and make sure you are somewhere where people can hear you. Most importantly, enjoy what you're doing.
Set off for Adelaide at 7.50pm. While I am waiting for the coach I bump into a chap from Portland, Oregon who has with him a Baby Taylor! He is heading up the East Coast.
Circular Quay, Sydney. Sending birthday congratulations to my nephew Dan back in Blighty
Trying to get the right shot
How about this one?
Right, this is definitely the last one. (Unfortunately this proved to be the case as my camera got nicked a few days later in Adelaide).
Thurs March 29th
Bloody hell, this is a long old coach trip. Got to Melbourne coach station at 7.00am, an hour later get another bus to Adelaide. Another 10 hrs on the road, Good thing is this is the day stage of the trip so can see the countryside. Flat plains, red earth, sheep, paddocks. What's most noticeable is the tinder dryness of the land. You can see how little rain there's been, particularly when we cross the border from Victoria into South Australia. The wind whisks the dust up into the air. But there are dark clouds brewing. Low and behold we drive into a rain shower. The fields become waterlogged immediately. The rain stops. I have been dosing on and off on the coach. The lengthiest sleep I get is maybe an hour and a half. I get the feeling i have been slobbering and dribbling. You know (or maybe you don't), that feeling when you wake with your mouth wide open.
Arrive in Adelaide 5.30pm. I get chatting to a Dutch lad who was on the coach and has been working in a garden nursery in Melbourne (where he saw lots of brown snakes and red back spiders). We check into YHA central Adelaide. Looks a decent hostel.
Fri March 30th
A magnificent day's busking in Adelaide's Rundle Mall. Sell 7 CDs and make over $130. Rundle Mall is the main pedestrian precinct that runs through the city. I am lucky because my visit to Adelaide has coincided with its Arts Fringe Festival. People seem very receptive to my music, more so than in Sydney. I even have the luxury of sitting down and playing on the public benches that run along the mall.
In the evening I find out that my cousin Kelly has had twin girls, a good day all round!
Sat 31st March
Another great day busking, sell another 7 albums. I have a good chat with Brent and Jo, a couple from Melbourne. Brent is a graphic designer and Jo is a hairdresser. They buy an album. They are good people and are part of a church group and we get talking religion and the environment. Brent tells me about the amazing starry nights you get in the desert regions of Australia further north.
Sun 1st April
Another day's busking in Adelaide. Feel a bit cream crackered. Think it's because I have been singing constantly for 3 days. Late in the day a group of Aborigines approach me while I'm playing. You don't see many Aborigines in the cities (a subject maybe best left for the next diary entry). This group listen to the music with interest. They look and smell as if they've been on the alcohol but I do get a few smiles from them which is good.
The Aboriginal problem with alcohol is well documented, but nevertheless sad to see first hand.
Monday 2nd April
Continue to busk. I have been trying to save for the famous Indian Pacific train ride that goes all the way to Perth. It crosses the Nullabor desert plain and takes 2 days from Adelaide.
In the evening I get approached by a chap called Michael who informs me there is an open Mic session at a pub called the Grace Emily near where I am staying. I consider it a chance to sell some albums. I get to the pub in the evening. It's packed full of musicians. The resident band is excellent. In the beer garden Michael and me rehearse a few tunes as he has brought along a 24 stringed instrument that you hit with percussion sticks (forgotten its name). He bought it in Tehran (Iran) of all places. We play together a song called 'As Old As The Rock' which is on one of my albums called 'Slate'. Unfortunately, later on in the evening my bag gets nicked from the beer garden. I do get my bag back but the camera is gone.
On the positive side, I had downloaded my photos onto disk only the day before and they had left the discs in my bag when it was returned to me by a couple of the pub's bouncers.
The police find the culprits in a nightclub in Adelaide later in the evening but no sign of the camera.
Tuesday 3rd April
Following the events of last night I feel a little deflated. Decide I will change my plans and head along the Great Ocean Road. It's a shame about the Indian Pacific and Perth but I consider it too costly and far away for this stage of my trip. The Great Ocean Road should be good. I book a coach leaving Adelaide tomorrow at 8.15am that is heading 340km south west to a quiet fishing resort called Robe. In the evening in the kitchen of Adelaide YHA I play some songs. Sell an album.
Wed 4th April
Arrive in Robe 12.40pm. The YHA is a lovely old English style building. I take a walk down to the sea. There is a small harbour/quayside for the boats. It's all very peaceful and tranquil.
On the eastern side of the headland there is a beach with calm waters. I might have a swim there tomorrow.
Thurs 5th April
Go for a walk around the coastal headland. The beaches are wild on the western side.
I walk through scrub and dunes to a point where there is a red and white obelisk looking out to sea. It starts to piss it down. The rain stops. I go for a swim. The water is bloody freezing but refreshing after the walk. The Southern Ocean receives uninterrupted currents from Antarctica, no surprise it takes me the rest of the day and night to warm up. I have a pint in the Caledonian Inn and sit next to the pub's open fire in the afternoon.
Fri 6th April
Busk on the main street running through Robe. Get a good response. Sell an album. Make $70 in two hours. I'm happy with that. What's more I manage to get a gig tomorrow night in a restaurant nearby. In the evening play some songs in the Robe YHA kitchen with lots of people joining in.
